Air India's invisible service

The excitement was palpable as I proceeded in the queue at my gate at London Heathrow as we got ready to board the flight. It was my first ever Air India (AI) international experience. I had flown AI several times in the past, but each time on the domestic sector, never internationally. I was promised a Dreamliner aircraft- a swanky, new generation aircraft- at the time of booking.

Before the flight took off- approximately an hour after I had boarded- my excitement turned into disappointment. And as it turned out, my AI flight 130 London-Mumbai turned out to be my most disappointing international flight ever. Here's why:

First impressions are the last impressions. How the flight attendants welcome you on board, assist you towards your seat and helps you settle down, goes a long way in creating a good lasting impression. But apart from one attendant present at the door to say 'namaste' and point you to your seat's direction, there were no AI flight attendants to be seen in the aisles. Some passengers struggled to keep their luggage in their overhead bins, but no flight attendant was to be seen. Few others like us wanted some water, but none around to attend us. The first sight of attendants came about an hour after the flight had taken off. Emirates and Jet Airways' attendants are always there in the aisles, during boarding, to help passengers settle down in their seats.

The languages of all announcements were hap-hazard and random. Most of the times, announcements were only in Hindi. Sometimes the pilot made announcement in just English. All professionally-managed carriers belong to some or the other country and I have always noticed that all their announcements in local as well as in English languages. For instance, Emirates' announcements are made in Arabic and English, always. What stopped AI to make all its announcements in both Hindi and English, is a mystery.

Many TV screens- including mine (on the seat in front of me) did not work. The flight attendant casually told us that one of the three servers is not working, so he will try "once more to re-start." This was my first. I have travelled on many airlines and to many places internationally, but this has never happened to me before. In-flight entertainment has always worked in my experience so far. It is, infact, a big draw by many airlines. Emirates goes to town about its in-flight entertainment (ICE; Information, Communication, Entertainment). But AI was nonchalant and blaze about it.

That reminds me; it wasn't a Dreamliner. It was a Boeing 777-300 ER. And I had heard very recently that somebody else too complained about the fact that his own recent London-Mumbai AI flight was also not a dreamliner as promised. I had hoped that that was an aberration. I was wrong.

The on-board service was almost invisible. Throughout the almost 9-hour flight, there were hardly any flight attendants who walked up and down the aisle looking after the passengers. We could call them through our remote on our seats, but I did not know how to operate it since the icons on it were too tiny and one needs some experience to navigate them. But still I'd expected to see some faces floating around. Instead, when I went to the back of the aircraft, I noticed two of them resting in the last two seats. Water bottles were plenty at the back of the aircraft for us to pick up. It was self-service.

The one flight attendant lady who I requested to help me understand the remote control and operate the TV, said to me "can you ask him?"...pointing to the other flight attendant. She was busy and only came to pick up something from a food trolley in my area. She couldn't be distracted.

Food was little above average; not bad. The salad was cold and I didn't know what it was. The rice and chicken gravy were quite decent. The snacks before landing time were also quite decent.

Seats were comfortable. Since it was a 3x3x3 configuration, it was good for solo travellers like me. I choose seat 19F (economy class; towards the front) the middle-row aisle and I got a couple to fill the other 2 seats. Hence, I did not get disturbed even once. Seats and legroom were comfortable, though Emirates' better.

Price? This was the best part. I paid just about Rs20,000 for a one-way London-Mumbai ticket. This is dirt cheap. And that's the only reason why I will fly AI again in future if I have to.

To put it in a nutshell, AI is just a cheap way to take us from point A to Point B; nothing more, nothing less.

(image courtesy: The Hindu newspaper)

DakshinaChitra @ Chennai

An ordinary work meeting with an acquantaince in Chennai led to a beautiful discovery, called DakshinaChitra. DakshinaChitra, which literally means 'a picture of South' is a heritage museum, spread over about 10 acres of land, in the city of Chennai, the capital city of the Tamil Nadu state, in southern India. A foreigner lady named Dr. Deborah Thiagarajan married to an Indian, started the Madras Craft Foundation (MCF) with like-minded people and conceived the idea of showcasing the heritage of southern India, here in Chennai. DakshinaChitra was born out of MCF. Its founder, as well as Laurie Baker, a renowned architect behind DakshinaChitra, went to all the four southern Indian states; Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala and Karnataka, and literally transported houses to DakshinaChitra. Well, not entire houses, but as much as they could salvage, minus the concrete, but the doors, windows, roofs, tiles, kitchen / hall / bedroom and whatever else paraphernalia that they could bring. The idea was to showcase the culture of southern Indian through their homes.

The museum tells us that all the houses brought and reconstructed at DakshinaChitra had been given up for demolition by their owners. If the museum couldn't convince the owner to keep the house, the museum then purchased the houses from the timber merchants to whom the contract for demolition had been given. DakshinaChitra, then, entered into a contract with the merchant in which he agrees to install the timber, stone, laterite, tiles and any other salvageable material from the old house into the new construction for the house. The wood seen in these houses were cleaned several times before installation.

A drainage outlet to let the excess water out in the garden

 Tamilnadu merchant's house

The detailing inside a Tamilnadu merchant house 

 Tamil Nadu merchant's house. All the doors, windows, pillars and floorings have been transported from an existing merchant's house somewhere in Tamilnadu; dismantled and relocated here. It's a wonder how DakshinaChitra managed to accomplish that

 Inside a Tamil Nadu Brahmin's house

 This is an actual representation of a typical village street in Tamil Nadu. These houses, transported from Ambur village, belonged to the Brahmin community of Tamil Nadu.

 A Tamil Nadu Brahmin's house 

 A Syrian Christian home. The front of the house directly leads to the granary. And there is usually a cross at the top of the main door

 The detailing on the wood-carved ceiling of a Syrian Christian home

 Look at the beautifully carved bed in a typical Syrian Christian bedroom

 A Syrian Christian home is characterised by a "general emphasis on storage of food items, the well in the kitchen, the steeped roof and the long verandah". Christians make up around 19% of Kerala's population. 

Source: http://dakshinachitra.net/syrian_christian_house

 A latch found in a Syrian Christian home

 Inside the Granary. The cabinet with little drawers are where the species are stored. Notice the large storage bins at the top, made of clay. These large storage bins are also found in most Parsi homes, used to store pickles mainly and even rice / dal.

 The Granary (and the adjoining cowshed which is not seen in this picture); part of a Syrian Christian household. The British influence can be seen in the arches on the ground level.

This is a typical Chikmagalur district house. It was built by K.A. Mohamed Ismail in 1914. His ancestors had shifted from Turkey to Bijapur and later to Chikmagalur. The various artefacts in this home were outstanding. So well restored and well maintained.

Canadian Rockies: Day 8 (Jasper National Park, Spirit Island)

Jasper was cold. It was around 1 degree C in the night we were in the Jasper. The next morning felt very cold too, at about 5-6 degrees, and we had to put on layers while in the bus itself. But we were told it would warm up in the day. But if the first thing in such weather that you're going to do is to take a boat ride in a lake, you better warm up. We went past lush green forests and Athabasca river to reach our first stop of the day; the Medicine lake. It was cold and foggy and we couldn't see the lake shore from afar. Boats were lined up, all decked up and ready.

After a brief washroom and cafe stop- I wasn't the least bit hungry as we just had a heavy breakfast- we were in the boat and zipping. Two girls were in charge; one was driving the boat and the other was the guide explaining us the significance of the medicine lake and the Spirit Island. Medicine lake owes its popularity, to an extent, to Kodak. Peter Gales' image of the Spirit Island- which is at one end of the lake- and which was taken from a Kodak camera was hung at the Grand Central station in New York in August and September 1960. This island is held to be sacred by the First Nation people and hence we weren't allowed to step on it. But there were enough pathways on the shore to take pictures of it.

On the way back, was a hidden jewel that Robyn took us to. It was a canyon- called the Maligne Canyon- that appeared out of nowhere. It was quite deep, befitting a canyon, with only a narrow crevice from the ground level from where we could see the canyon and admire its depth.

Lunch was on our own back in Jasper town and my friend and I walked through the town, searching for the right place. We chose an A&W burger outlet.

A couple watering their plants at the community garden

In the evening, we took the Sawridge Inn shuttle car to bring us to town. Since this hotel is 2 kms away from the main town, it has a shuttle facility to take us to the town. But the return trip is on our own. Both my friend and I love to walk, so it was a pleasure to walk back after a very light dinner (soup only actually, as I wasn't hungry). On our way, we came across the Jasper community garden. It's a local municipality-owned place where tow residents cane take up plots and grow plants, flowers and fruits. We met this old couple who had a plot there; the wife was caring their large, white dog who she said came into their lives, the husband was watering the plants. Residents who don't have space in their houses to grow a garden can take up plots at a community garden. Indian cities would do well to have such community gardens; it's one idea I would like to import into India.

Jasper community garden

Jasper community garden

Jasper community garden

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Canadian Rockies: Days 11-13 (Vancouver)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-11-13-vancouver.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 11 (Victoria whale watching)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-11-victoria-whale.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 10 (Victoria)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-10-victoria.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 9 (Jasper)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-9-jasper-and.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 8 (Jasper)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-8-jasper-national.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 7 (Lake Loiuse) 

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-7-lake-louise-and.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 6 (Banff national park)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-6-banff-gondola.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 5 (Banff)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-5.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 4 (Glacier National Park)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-4.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 3 (Waterton)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-3.html

Canadian Rockies: Days 1 and 2 (Calgary)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-days-1-and-2.html

Canadian Rockies - Days 1 and 2 (Calgary)

The start of a memorable trip can begin with a tiring journey. Often, to reach the most divine places, you have to, as the phrase goes, "climb a mountain". And enduring a 25-hour journey (that includes a halt of five hours, approximately) sure feels like one.

I flew Lufthansa Mumbai - Frankfurt - Mumbai and Air Canada on Frankfurt - Canada - Frankfurt. Air Canada was decent. I did not like Lufthansa. My ticket was a code share ticket, so Lufthansa appears to treat its code-share flights like second class citizens. It does not allow us to select seats or do a web check-in. I faced the danger of being assigned a middle seat. I threw a fit at the Mumbai airport and then they offered me an upgrade (paid, not free) to premier economy. I took it and the seat was comfortable but I almost froze to death. It was the coldest cabin I have ever travelled in. My first- but very anticipated- experience with Lufthansa was unimpressive. 

Centre Street Bridge, Calgary

Anyways, Calgary was warm and welcoming. The airport is minimalistic, but clean. Immigration queues are short as the airport is small and the staff is friendly. I got into an interesting discussion with my immigration officer about India and Pakistan celebrating 71 years of independence. Calgary, as a town, looks very vast area wise but spread out and sparely populated. 

Buffalo cafe, founded in 1886, at Eau Claire market, Calgary downtown

Buffalo Cafe

My hotel was in downtown, so getting around on my own for the first two days was easy. The riverfront offers nice vistas and an awesome place to walk and bike. After a scrumptious and early morning breakfast at the Buffalo Cafe (this one's got to be one of Calgary's best breakfast places) in the Eau Claire market area , I did biking. It is always a pleasure to cycle in foreign countries, where road manners are there, people have the courtesy to halt at traffic signals and allow others to go first. 

Rented a bike, drove along the riverside up to Bow Valley collage, crossed over to the other side of Bow river, then drove back to the direction of Eau Claire market, on the Memorial Drive, past Prince's Island Park, Peace Bridge, up to 14th Street Bridge, crossed over it and back to Eau Claire Market. A short stroll inside Prince Island's park followed. There was an Italian festival, so part of the park was shut. 

Later in the evening, we had a get-together with our tour group (Gate1 travels) and then went out again with a stroll with my friend, went up to the Calgary tower to enjoy sunset vistas of the town from up above.

That's my bike

Canadian Rockies: Days 11-13 (Vancouver)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-11-13-vancouver.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 11 (Victoria whale watching)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-11-victoria-whale.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 10 (Victoria)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-10-victoria.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 9 (Jasper)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-9-jasper-and.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 8 (Jasper)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-8-jasper-national.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 7 (Lake Loiuse)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-7-lake-louise-and.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 6 (Banff national park)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-6-banff-gondola.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 5 (Banff)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-5.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 4 (Glacier National Park)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-4.html

Canadian Rockies: Day 3 (Waterton)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-day-3.html

Canadian Rockies: Days 1 and 2 (Calgary)

http://kayezad.blogspot.in/2017/09/canadian-rockies-days-1-and-2.html

Bhuleshwar - a Heritage Walk

"The resonance of tenple bells reverberates through the stillness of dawn. The milk vendor pedals his way through the labyrinth of lanes and by-lanes. The fragrance emanating from the piles of flowers stacked along the Phool-Galli permits the air. The crimson on the eastern horizon heralds the sunrise as Bhuleshwar stirs to life and prepares itself to turn a resigned enclave into a beehive of multifaceted activity as the day wears on" --A Tale of Native Towns of Mumbai (Bhuleshwar-Girgaum-Malabar Hill) by Jagdish Gandhi. 

Indeed Bhuleshwar is a sleepy enclave when we start our heritage walk with Khaki Tours but is completely different as the sun goes up and the day picks up pace. By the time we finish our walk and come back to the starting point, Bhuleshwar is unrecognisable. 

Shri Swaminarayan Temple, built in colonial architecture style. It's facade has similarities to what you can see in a French cathedral. The temple is encased by residential quarters.

Born as Ghanshyam Pandey in Ayodhya, Sahajanand Swami travelled all over before landing in Saurashtra. There, he united a heavily fragmented region and spread his teachings and created a binding force in Saurashtra. He was later given the title of Swaminarayan. This temple is the first Swaminarayan temple in Mumbai, before their fascination for marble took over. This temple was built, around 120 years ago, on a land that was donated by a Kutchi gentleman who demolished his own house and donated his land to build this temple.

A very interesting Hanuman idol inside the Swaminarayan temple, built in Nepali style. Notice the women under his feet. Usually, it's a male (Shani), but here you see a women (Panavti). By the way, there is a Panavti temple in Nepal where people go to remove their own panavti (bad luck)

An interesting Ganesh idol different from the ones we usually see

The tale of Sahajanand Swami who was born in Ayodhya and later travelled to- and lived in- Saurashtra, told in a comic strip as painted on the dome's ceiling of the Swaminarayan Temple.

The idols of Narayan and goddess Laxmi. Look at Laxmi closely; she is holding a diamond studded purse.

A shop with an old-fashioned signage

This is one of the narrowest streets in Mumbai. It goes under a building and resembles a building entrance. But it is officially a street.

The Balaji Ramji temple, built in art deco style, the only Art Deco styled temple in the precinct. It is owned by the GSB temple trust, that also owns the Banganga tank, Walkeshwar temple and the Sitladevi temple at Mahim. The art deco styled Balaji Ramji temple. Such flooring can be seen in other art deco buildings like Eros Cinema

Bhuleshwar flower market

Panchmukhi Hanuman Temple. This temple is famous for the 5-headed Hanuman idol.

A unique Tulsi vrindavan where the lower part is open

Rameshwar Temple (notice the two monkeys at either side)

Bhuleshwar Temple

 A hindu temple in an islamic looking building, which has a star of David on it.

Inside the Krishna Pranani Temple; a lovely silver casket to collect donations

Raja Chhatrasal of Shri Krishn Pranami sect, a 400-year old Gujarati sect of Vaishnavism. He and his master Pran Nath, who headed the sect, took on Aurangzeb for his excesses on Hindus. Chhatrasal was Mastani's (of Bajirao Mastani) father.

A silver sculptor of a lady dressed in traditional Maharashtrian attire of a 9-year saree

The ceiling depicting Lord Krishna's dance inside the Krishna Pranani Temple

A carving- made with Indo-western influence- at one of the temples at Bhuleshwar. She is an apsara (angel) wearing a 9-yrd saree but look at the umbrella at the top which is a wester influence and also the mermaid look. This is a temple that honours artisans.

The Vishwakarma Temple; a unique temple devoted to Vishwakarma, a God of artisans and engineers. The only one of its kind in Mumbai. Above right: The dome's ceiling of the Vishwakarma Temple

The 10 incarnations of Vishnu painted in the dome's ceiling of the Vishwakarma Temple

The Sri Ram Mandir built in Gurjar-Mewada style, Kabutarkhana in Bhuleshwar. The feel is that of a typical Mewad palace.

The two main doors to the sanctum sanatorium depict Ramayana tales

A canon buried ages ago on the road

One of the country's oldest animal shelters. In 1830, there were Parsi dog riots. Back then, the Bombay government decided to kill stray dogs, many of whom happened to be pets of Parsi families. Parsis, who at that time constituted 7% of the city's population and dominate trade with the British, stopped food supplies  to the British as a mark of protest. The government finally gave in and asked Parsis to make an animal shelter. So in 1834, Motichand Amarchand (a Jain) and Sir Jamsetjee Jijibhoy came together and founded the Bombay Panjrapole. Now, it is dominated by Jain who come here to feed the animals as an act of kindness.

 The richly endowed Gir Cow bull. The bulls are really large

The city's only Sun Temple. It sits in the central courtyard surrounded by working . office quarters. The presiding deity, Surya Narayan, sits mounted in a chariot drawn by seven horses (each horse representing a day of the week) and piloted by Arun, the charioteer, is carved out from a single stone. The doors of the Sun Temple must face the east to get the first rays of the sun.



(Text referance: Bharat Gothoskar, A Tale of Native Towns of Mumbai, a book by Jagdish Gandhi and notes taken down by my friend Abhay Kukreti, a fellow Khaki-ite.)