Pune: Thirty Years, One Goodbye

Letting go of loved ones and friends is painful. But letting go of a house, filled with memories, is just as painful. I realised this recently after we sold off my Mom's Pune flat. When Mom was young, she loved to invest in real estate, and I was dead against it. I've always been against real estate investment. To soften the blow, Mom kept on saying that she had bought the house with the hope of bringing her younger brother Godrej and his wife Nergish from Mozambique — who spent their entire adult lives in poverty and ill-health — and helping them settle here in Pune, where perhaps their mother — my granny who lived with us since Grandpa passed away in 1988, till she passed away in 2005 — could also live with them. That was easier said than done. Getting them to India proved to be impossible. Besides, the way she went about decorating and setting up the new home, the idea of my uncle and aunty living in that home evaporated quickly, as Mom doesn't like anybody other than her using her kitchen and the rest of the house. Looking back, I cannot believe I had revolted strongly against her buying the home and had sworn I'd never set foot in that house. Thirty years later, as we sold our home, I felt like I left a piece of me in there. In a good way, though! The house had become our home. And selling a home that is filled with so many lovely memories felt like saying goodbye to our own child.

 

I had hardly been to Pune before 1996, when we bought that house. Every other Parsi, it appeared, other than us, had got a taste of Pune by then. Up until then, Pune was just a pass-through city on our way to Panchgani, where Mom had another home back then. We used to take the morning Indrayani Express, alight at Pune railway station, go to the taxi stand, haggle with taxi drivers to take us to Panchgani (either sharing or full taxi) and then off we set for the hills. Kayani Bakery was largely unknown; the little I knew of it growing up made it sound like a fairyland that produced those delicious biscuits that God gave only to good kids, if they did well in studies.

Our last photo at our Pune home before we left

Pune grew on me quicker than I had thought. It was easier to reach there. The weather is gorgeous. Global warming has heated up the place over the years, but even today in monsoons and winters, it is still quilt-blanket and no-fan weather. When I was in college and in my early work years, when responsibilities were far fewer, my Pune holidays were elaborate. I used to take a rickshaw and go to Camp every day for some excuse or another. The ride itself was an experience; a half-hour ride to Camp which I used to cherish. A quick dash past Fakhri Hills and Kubera Park Housing colonies, the ride up the steep hill next to Serene Estate, and then a long, steady downhill ride past the Military Command Hospital and onto the crowded and chaotic MG Road after passing Poolgate.

 

Daily visits to Camp were a must. And every day I used to visit one Agiary (Parsi fire-temple). Pune has three Agiaries: Sir Jamshetjee Jeejeebhoy Agiary at Dastur Meher Road, Komra Agiary (Camp), and Sardar Sorabji Ratanji Patel Agiary at Nanapeth, which most of us remember as the Nanapeth Agiary. But first: a stop at the newspaper vendor at Khadda Market, also called Pool Gate Vegetable Market.

C.T.Pundole watch shop & service centre

Mar-o-Rin cafe, MG Road

Pune isn't a city to me. It's a feeling. Certain things were non-negotiable in those days. A walk down MG Road, at least one movie at Inox Bund Garden Road, Shrewsbury biscuits and Mawa cakes at Kayani Bakery, an occasional snack at Mar-o-Rin, a meal at Malakka's Spice (can't forget my last meal there and the song 'Everybody's Changing' by Keane was playing), getting my watches repaired or batteries replaced at C.K. Pundole (the best watch retail and repair shop in India), Mom shopping for her numerous vessels at Huns & Co at RS Kedari Road, at least one meal at Dorabjee & Sons (Dhansakh is a must, followed by Curry rice) and of course numerous visits at Dorabjee's; India's best department store where I can spend hours and hours roaming and never get bored. I never needed an excuse to go to Dorabjee's. 

 

Pune was a very different city back then in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Traffic was tolerable, though Punekars never observed traffic rules. It seems they never grew up learning what a traffic signal is. One of the most indisciplined examples of lane management I've ever seen. I've seen handicapped 2-wheeler riders change lanes precariously, without wearing a helmet and talking on a mobile. Multiple, oh-so-many, violations at once. But you know, the weird part is that the traffic always moves. The few times I've seen traffic police implementing signals and lane discipline, traffic piles up. Perhaps because roads and lanes are so narrow that unless the cars and bikes find their way — which they do — there used to be huge jams. If you can drive a car or ride a bike in Pune, you could drive or ride yourself anywhere in India. But over the years, traffic and road congestion went up. It's perhaps the only city in India where I get scared to cross the road. That wasn't a good sign for me as I age, and I had initially thought to spend my retired life there. Besides, maintaining a home away from home is both costly, time-consuming and exhausting. Real estate is a bad investment unless you live in it.

 

It's time for my home to be cared for and nurtured by a new loving and caring family, and I couldn't have found a better family than the one that bought my home. For the first time, my home has provided a roof over a permanent and growing family, and nothing could be better than that. I wish the new owners a lifetime of happiness and good memories. 

Chai in the Dining Car

Train journeys fascinate me. But none quite like the Deccan Queen (DQ). Especially the Mumbai to Pune leg. Years ago, I shifted my loyalties from the Indrayani Express (which leaves for Pune in the morning) to the DQ (which leaves in the evening). And even though Pragati Express leaves a good 50 minutes before- and reaches few minutes sooner than- the DQ, the Queen has her own charm. And I like the C4 coach particularly because it's right next to the Dining Pantry car. By the way, the Queen just got a refurbished dining car, with new lights, new seating, curtains and very swanky. The Dining car has been the DQ's highlight for years. It's half kitchen and half restaurant. The new dining car has two new wash basins as well. They had just introduced it days before my last visit, so the decorations were still on. That's also another reason why I love the DQ. Unlike other Mumbai - Pune trains, this one has a pantry car, so food is freshly prepared. Leaving home in the afternoon and walking into the Mumbai CST station that time- as also reaching Pune late evening and then crashing to bed after a delicious dinner- has its own charm for me, which I can't quite describe it, so let's not bother.

The DQ chugs out at Mumbai CST at sharp 5:10. I think it's the only train where the air-conditioned coaches still have wall clocks in them. And one of the very few trains that don't stop at Dadar. By which time, it picks up good speed, but not quite its top speed I think. The best part of DQ is when the staff from the pantry car starts coming in offering tea / coffee at first, followed sometimes by soup and then they take orders for evening snacks. Bread/butter toast or sandwich (you can order it with cheese), omelette, vegetable cutlets, chicken cutlets, baked beans and perhaps a few other items. My favourite: bread, cheese, butter toast and omelette. I wish they could offer chai along with the toast sandwich, so that I could dip my toast in tea and have it. But since preparation takes time, they serve the beverages first.

I like food that's freshly prepared. Other trains have readymade snacks that are already prepared in their station canteens. I don't like that and prefer to carry sandwiches from home on such trains. Onboard the DQ, the pantry staff is top rate; very courteous, hardworking and they are always running and on their toes to serve. There is this particular charming old man, who's the pantry staff, who I've been seeing on the DQ for years now. Fortunately, he was in charge of C4 this time, so we were well looked after.

I like to follow a pattern when travelling to Pune by train. Apart from my snack and what I must have all the time, I have to alight at Karjat station for some time. Here's where all trains heading to Pune- fast or slow, long or short- get a few electric locomotives attached at the back to push it up the ghats. The engines then detach themselves away at Lonavala (here again, I must step out briefly) and return back to Karjat for the same routine, all over again. Except for a few passenger and freight trains, Karjat is a technical stop for most fast Mumbai - Pune trains. This means that you can't buy tickets for Karjat. But the train stops there for technical / operational reasons. Which is also why, on return, most of these trains don't stop at Karjat because when the train comes down the ghat, it does not need locomotives to push it. Slower trains have a commercial stop here.

Karjat station is also famous for its vadas. I don't care for the vadas but I like the atmosphere of Karjat station. It gives a village station feel as there's quite a lot of greenery that surrounds it. Once the ghat section starts, I ventured into the new Dining car. Now usually, the dining car gets full at the Karjat station itself, as this is the best place any Mumbai - train can has to offer. You have your food, relax and enjoy the view the ghats. Especially in the monsoons, where you get see many waterfalls and beautiful scenery. I don't get a window seat, but since I am determined to get a seat, I wait patiently till I see an empty seat. Since I am full, I order just a cup of tea.

On the other hand, I wish I could have eaten my evening snack here, as they prepare all sorts of eggs (I saw someone eating fried eggs, sunny side up) and also serve us in glass plates and stainless steel cutlery. But I have my chai and enjoy the view as the train meanders its ways up the ghats, through the tunnels, over the bridges, some of them as old as about 50 years I suppose, occasionally honking and trying to speed as much as possible. I could hardly spot any waterfall because it hadn't rained in a long time. But the scenery is still beautiful. In just 30 mins, DQ chugs past Khandala and arrives at Lonavala.

At 8:30, we reach Pune in style. And into familiar surroundings. Past the Vaswani ashram, Dorabjee's shop, Kayani Bakery, Moledina Road, touching MG Road, East Street, the white-washed church and cozy cottages on the Napier Road, Pune Camp

A walk on Pune's MG road

Taking a walk down the MG road in Pune camp area in the morning can be quite invigorating. Especially if you don't have any agenda.

I start from Golibar maidan end. First stop is the newspaper vendor. The elderly Muslim gentleman is such a friendly man; he recognises all his regular customers, even someone like me who go to Pune once in a month, two or even three. All newspapers and magazines are usually available with him; a very well stocked stall. There's something about a neatly organised newspaper stall. It just pulls you in, even if you know you are not that avid reader or may not have the time to read as much as you'd like. You want to read all the newspapers and magazines on display. Of course I can't. Plus, I carry my iPad these days so I prefer reading all newspapers on it. And if I like something that I can't read at that moment, I can always save the link. Most of my weekend reading these days are stories that I come across throughout the week. Or those that I come across in some exceptionally busy mornings. Pune is a different story. I still feel sentimental about stopping by my newspaper stall, pick up an occasional Business Line (only for BLink that's edited by the fabulous Veena Venugopal, about who ad guru Prahlal Kakkar once said "she is as sexy as she reads"), Mumbai Samachar (Asia's oldest newspaper) for Mother India and perhaps a Times of India for its so-what-am-I-supposed-to-do content but liked by Mother India nevertheless. 

Next to the paper vendor is one of Pune's biggest fruit and vegetable market. This is the place to go to if you want to buy the freshest fruits and veggies. These days, you can't miss all those mangoes lined up there. Stalls are nearly laid out and items are top quality. 

MG road has everything you need. Shoes, clothes, shops, crockeries, furniture, electronics, computers and everything you need and everything you don't. Pundole watchmakers stands tall further down the line. From one shop there years back, they have now grown to about four shops, with a separate watch-repair shop. They are the only shop I know that sells watch cases. The Parsi family is full of expert horologists. The gentleman who runs the repair section comes across as the guy who invented time! Once I asked him if they repair Omega watches. Aghast at me even daring to ask something like that, he immediately pointed towards one of two dozen certificates hung across the wall to one that said "official service centre for Omega". "We definitely do Omega watches, sir", he said, still not overcome with the shock he got from my question. With a soft voice but firm tone, he comes across as every bit knowledgable that he is. Our first and last stop for all our watch repairs.

MG road offers plenty of options for the foodies. A slight detour towards East Street takes you to the delightful Kayani Bakery for the world - famous Shrewsberry biscuits. But I want to try out something new there now. So I bought chocolate biscuits and Khatai. The former were not good, the latter was heavenly. Marz-o-rin is a long-time favourite; better than any of our Starbucks and Cafe Coffee Days of the world. Ice coffee, chicken sandwiches and Black Forest pastry and a table on the first floor verandah is all you need to spend a lovely hour and watch the world go by. Today though, we decided to visit age-old George restaurant further down the line for their chicken biryani.